We have been warned by food experts that our ‘agriculture’ is destructive to animals, insects, fish and plants, and is unsustainable. Tristan Stuart wrote that ‘infinite abundance is an illusion’ (Waste, 2009) and in the words of Carolyn Steel: ‘our food system is no more secure, ethical or sustainable than Rome’s was’ (Hungry City, 2008). Now Evan Fraser and Andrew Rimas want to warn us that we face a similar fate to previous food empires: we face collapse. I both understand and agree with their message and it is reluctantly that I argue that, as a historical study, Empires of Food leaves much to be desired. The book is described by its publishers Random House as a ‘history’; it is therefore as history that I will evaluate Empires of Food. Read the rest of my review at History Today
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